FH6 Modification Guide - What to Upgrade First
The biggest mistake new players make: buying expensive cars instead of upgrading what they have. A fully upgraded $50,000 car will destroy a stock $200,000 car. Here's how to mod smart.
Upgrade Priority Order
Always follow this order. Each step builds on the previous:
Tires
Biggest performance gain for the cost. Stock tires can't handle increased power, leading to wheelspin and poor handling.
Suspension
Controls how the car corners and absorbs bumps. Essential for any serious racing build.
Brakes
More power requires better stopping ability. Essential for safety and competitive lap times.
Engine
Adds raw horsepower. More power = faster straights, but only if tires can put it down.
Transmission
Shorter gear ratios = faster acceleration. Complements engine upgrades.
Drivetrain (AWD/RAWD/RWD)
AWD improves grip for high-power builds. RWD is better for drifting and throttle control.
Aero (Front & Rear)
Adds downforce for high-speed cornering. Less important for street racing, critical for track builds.
Weight Reduction
Lighter = faster in every way. But expensive and not always necessary.
Build Types & Recommended Upgrades
Choose your driving style, then follow the corresponding upgrade path:
Street Racing — Balanced all-rounder
Include these upgrades:
Skip these:
Tuning focus: Medium stiffness, street alignment
Track Day — Maximum grip and braking
Include these upgrades:
Skip these:
Tuning focus: Stiff suspension, aggressive alignment, high brake pressure
Drift — RWD + power = slides
Include these upgrades:
Skip these:
Tuning focus: Loose LSD, low rear tire pressure, steering angle +
Drag Racing — Maximum acceleration
Include these upgrades:
Skip these:
Tuning focus: Launch RPM, short gears, street tire pressure for grip
Dirt/Rally — AWD + suspension
Include these upgrades:
Skip these:
Tuning focus: Soft suspension, high tire pressure for dirt, AWD bias toward rear
The Golden Rule: Tires First
Never add power before upgrading tires.
Adding horsepower to stock tires just createswheelspin. Your car will accelerate slower, corner worse, and be generally undriveable. Always start with tires.
Budget vs. Full Build
Budget Build (Under $50,000 total)
- Sport Tires — $8,000
- Sport Suspension — $10,000
- Engine Upgrade 1-2 — $15,000
- Transmission — $10,000
- Total: ~$43,000 → Can reach A-Class (700-799 PI)
Mid Build ($50,000-$100,000)
- Sport Tires → Racing Slicks — $15,000
- Sport Suspension → Race Suspension — $20,000
- Engine Upgrade 3-4 — $25,000
- Race Transmission — $15,000
- Brakes — $12,000
- Total: ~$87,000 → Can reach S1-Class (800-899 PI)
Full Build ($150,000+)
- Racing Slicks — $20,000
- Race Suspension — $30,000
- Engine Upgrade 5-6 — $45,000
- Race Transmission — $25,000
- Race Brakes — $20,000
- Aero Package — $25,000
- Weight Reduction — $35,000
- Total: ~$200,000 → Can reach S2-Class (900-998 PI)
Common Modification Mistakes
Mistake #1: Power Before Grip
Adding a big engine to stock tires = wheelsplaning disaster. Always upgrade tires and suspension first.
Mistake #2: Ignoring Weight Distribution
Some cars are front-heavy, some rear-heavy. After suspension upgrades, check your alignment settings.
Mistake #3: Wrong Tire Compound
Use Sport Tires for street builds, Racing Slicks for track builds. Off-road tires for dirt. Don't mix!
When to Reset Upgrades
If you've been experimenting and want to start fresh, you can sell a car and rebuy it with stock parts, or use the "Reset to Stock" option in the upgrade menu. You'll get back 80% of upgrade costs as credits.
Next Steps
- Tuning Guide — Learn to dial in your settings after upgrading
- Suspension Tuning — Detailed suspension setup guide
- Drift Tutorial — Specific modification tips for drift builds
More FH6 Guides
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